Our Free Service offer: When you purchase a knife from us, we will Re-sharpen, Repair and Re-carbide coat (3) three times for no charge for the original owner.
All Blades are made using 100% Aerospace (Grade 5) Titanium. The handle is an ABS injection molded plastic with high UV resistance. Other custom handle materials are wood and cork. The blades are fastened and sealed using marine grade epoxy and set into the handle.
The sheaths are made of Nylon with Brass fittings. Nylon possesses great flexability, and brass has high mechanical strength. This makes our sheaths suitable for tough consumer use.
After use and prior to storage, rinse blade, handle and sheath in fresh water to remove fishing debris or other residues (also, helps brass from tarnishing).
Please note: All Fillet Knives are shipped with a double bevel final edge
Sharpen the blade by placing the untreated side against any fine grit stone, ceramic stone or rod or just a
plain piece of sandpaper 320 grit or finer (preferrably stuck with an adhesive to a flat surface). Our blades
are sharpened easily by hand using standard knife sharpening techniques. The difference is, only one side
gets sharpened. Please don't use any mechanical sharpeners or carbide scrapers because they can damage
any knifemaker's designed edge.
Single Bevel Sharpening: Steps 1-3 Place your index finger along the treated (carbide) side of blade
cutting edge bevel and gently press it to the stone or flat surface. This will cause the back of the blade to
raise off the surface until the knife bevel is flat against the stone. This determines your primary bevel angle
and sharpen at this angle using only a few light to medium strokes.
Double bevel sharpening: Step 4 (A second bevel results in a stronger edge and is a common technique).
After getting the primary bevel angle, raise the back of the blade slightly higher, this creates a second bevel
angle and sharpen using several medium pressure strokes on a medium course grit, then several more strokes
on a finer grit.
Direction and finessing of blade: The cutting edge is leading your stroke (sharp end into the sharpening
media), it is your choice to go away from you or towards you. You can start at the tip (point) first or ricasso
(base of the blade before fingerguard) and a few (4-5) smooth steady strokes along the entire cutting edge
should be enough. Step 5 When you are done and feel that you have completed your sharpening, flip the
edge over to the treated side with the blade almost perpendicular and resting on the stone (no pressure),
draw it back to you once to remove any burr (wire curl) that will have formed.